Stereo Mode: 110 watts per channel at 75 amps of High-Current Capability into 8 ohms
Surround Mode: 100 watts per channel into 8 ohms
Dolby Digital, DTS, HDCD decoding, and Harman Kardon's Logic 7 and VMAx.
I bought my unit in Dec 2001 - this big old thing has been cranking away to this day and I'm still loving it - without any problems whatsoever. It cost AUD1650 back then and had been in demonstration unit, so well run in and tested before me, but sold with full warranty and support as 'shop display model.'
It has plenty of power in the DTS and stereo modes - so absolutely plenty of grunt running the surrounds and centre - so anyone reporting volume level problems has other issues with their set-up or there might be a fault with their AVR7000.
Until this month I ran 4ohm Linear Design K2500 floor standing speakers...this thing drive them with ease, part of the reason I bought the biggest HK in the shop was for the conservative rms w rating, toroidal power-supply and high current design. This month I purchased new loud speakers after 16 yrs and on the upgrade path for HiFi Cd source.
When auditioning speakers I took my AVR7000 to the hifi shop as I needed to assess if and how the amp ran the new spkrs while I saved for dedicated amplifier(s). The shop used entry level Yamaha cd player to approximate my home source and the avr7000 drove them so well, I bought the spkrs on the day. At the end of a 90min auditioning session I had them switch the speakers over to $13k worth of Leema Accoustics (Amp: Tucana II 140W RMS 8ohm, CD Antila IIS Eco) just to humour me and hear what spkrs were capable of.
The difference from the AVR7000 to this level of equipment using the same Monitor Audio GS-60 speakers was surprisingly close - there were differences, but not where I expected them to be i.e. bottom end, base etc. I remarked quietly to my wife, "I can't the $10k difference!' Just in case you think I'm tone deaf, during my speaker auditioning I dismissed MA-RX8 pretty early on, but spent some time between GS-20 and GS-60 - I took home the GS-60s.
I really am wondering whether I need to drop $5k on dedicated 2ch amplifers or pre amps and monoblocks, maybe $13k Leema Accoustics are not very good....or more likely the AVR7000 is really punching above it's weight as a 2-channel amp. I keep reading receivers are crap for stereo, indeed local high-falutin' hifi shop cringed when I told them what was driving my MA GS-60s...but it comes back to two golden rules in hifi:
1. Listen for yourself
2. Never trust review - so I just wasted 25mins typing this out LOL!
Picked this unit up used for very little money, no remote but my Harmony was programmable. First con, Harmony does not include the code for OSD (on screen display), this would have made setting up the receiver so much easier. HK does keep the manual for this receiver online, thank you for that.
Spent some time with a sound level meter and got the levels set. This can take a while, the unit keeps separate settings for Dolby, DTS and stereo for each input. Suggestion, leave the subwoofer set to zero and use the volume control on the sub to set its level, the receiver does not include test tones for the sub, you will need a test CD/DVD. Do a search for one, there is a nice one available for free that does tones, I really wish it did test patterns as well.
The receiver replaced a small Pioneer that cost about $200.00 several years ago, it worked but was never great. The new (to me) HK was like a breath of fresh air. I am driving a pair of ESS Heils as my main speakers and every one in the house, not just me, agrees that the overall sound is much better. The Dolby and DTS decoding are first rate, dialogue is much better, music in stereo mode has better soundstage and depth in the playback.
Second con, as soon as the unit was unplugged or the master power switch was pressed all the settings would be lost. Solution replace the 0.047F capacitor mounted on the circuit board directly behind the front panel. Easier said then done. Cap obtained from DigiKey, 2 caps plus shipping about $6.00. Getting to it though that was a problem. Unplug unit then remove the top, you will then need to remove both of the flat boards mounted in the center back, there are a load of screws along the back at the video ports and the digital I/O ports that will need to be removed to get these cards out. You need these out of the way so you can unplug three audio cables running from the front board. You will also need to unplug several other cables and cut a bunch of wire ties to get everything loose. There is one red/white wire running from the front board to a plug located at the right front corner of the bottom board of the right side board stack directly behind the main transformer, you can reach it with long needle nose pliers or heavy tweezers. Once you have everything loose you can release the front panel enough to remove another large bunch of screws to separate the front board from the bezel. The cap in question is mounted on the front of the board, just under the display and to the left of the big IC chip. My replacement part looked different but fit in easy enough, watch your polarity, my part had a small - symbol stamped into one leg. Just reverse your steps for reassembly, be sure to use a few wire ties to keep wires away from hot heat sinks. This fixed my problems.
One other common problem is the switched outlet, it often comes from the factory with a one amp fuse, easily blown, if you do blow it, replace it with a 3.3 amp slo blo, this fix is per the factory service bulletin. The fuse is on the board directly behind the switched outlet.
Another thing to be aware of is its size and weight, it weighs almost 50 pounds and is taller and deeper then most other receivers, I had to add a brace to the shelf its stitting on and a board under it because the front feet hang over the front of the shelf.
A couple of other cons, there can be a static blip as the unit switched from stereo to Dolby or DTS and vice a versa. Given that this was one of the first Dolby/DTS receivers I am prepared to overlook it. By many accounts this is an unreliable receiver, don't go looking for one, but if one comes your way really cheap, then take a look. The factory remote would have made setting up the sound levels easier, but I managed without it. The On Screen Display only works on composite and S-Video, normal for this era. No HDMI switching (alos expected), get one from MonoPrice that has a digital audio out as well for $50.00 that will do the job. If your running a home theater system at this level you should be using a good universal remote like the Harmony One.
I am glad the receiver came my way, cash is tight and I can not afforded a high end receiver at this time or in the foreseeable future. Even if this unit fails in a couple of years I am still ahead of the game.
I'm guessing on the year as I am the second owner - original owner had this amp for three years, I've now owned it for almost another three years. Was in my AV room until I replaced it with a SONY DA5200ES in order to get HDMI connections.
Now in my bedroom attached to a BOSE Acoustimas 15 speaker system with BOSE VC10 center speaker and BOSE 161 speakers as the satellites. My bedroom TV is a 34” SONY CRT connected with a composite (yes composite) cable for all my video sources.
My wife and I watch at least one movie every night. Mostly DVD but also VHS, Blu-ray and HD DVD sources.
This unit is in mounted in a MDF cabinet that I cut out the side of for ventilation.
The sound is a wonderful, we usually run the volume at 13-20 (being a real amp the volume of 0 is full output). I have absolutely no complaints with this amp, it plays everything I throw at it - Dolby, DTS, CD's and even some 96/24 Hi Def recordings.
I live out in the woods and I am on the last utility power pole in my area so we do not get good electrical power. This unit has survived many brown outs, power outages and even close lightning strikes that have taken out our power. It has always recovered usually without even losing its speaker settings.
This amp has pushed Cerwin Vega RE 30 speakers (4ohms), Polk, BOSE, Klipsh and other good speakers without ever complaining. I use 12 gauge wire and banana jacks for all my speakers and amp connections. All RCA cables are top quality with heavy connectors (MonoPrice's best).
There is nothing I can find to complain about with this HK 7000 amp!
the amp is great but reliable not so good, my brothers kids could make a better amp. i bought as combo with a harmon dvd 5, that lasted about three months then died, the tech said if u watch a movie on it every day it wont last a year, ha my friend has a sony used steady for four years no prob.Like they say go with a dvd player whose brand makes tvs, i believe no more prob sony all the way. well back to the avr 7000 i had for about five months when the volume cranks full blast while watching a movie,ran up turning nob down, dead fish. burning up all my mirage speakers, so mad but hk replace the speakers, amp goes to ontario where it stays for 4 months waiting for parts haha on the way back the courior drops it smash s the face, well back to ontario another month and half after this nightmare. finally i hook it back up and work great well for a few months and then tada, full blast again this time i turned the master off saving my speakers. i dont recomend this amp thoe very good sound, nice looking amp not dull like older hk models. i think the problem lye in no internal fan,my amp was never in a cabinet, but run real hot, i think hk was hot and heavy to get it out and for sale
This is a flagship receiver by Harman Kardon.
It's full of problems.
I was very annoyed, b/c a friend of mine got an HK 8000 for his troubles and they told me that the majority of my issues were "features."
I sold it for $100 last week to my nephew.